Friday, September 20, 2019

The UnMentionables - The Research of Drawers

The time is here to start the pantalettes. I've been doing a lot of research on them while sewing other items on my September Accountability List.

What I Learned

I did a lot of wading through pictures and information and as I went along I found a few things in common. My favorite article is from Kate Tattersall. But I did find a few other tidbits while researching. Most indicate that these undergarments were worn starting in the 1850-60's.
  • Pantalettes refers to drawers from a specific time period. Drawers were referred to as underlinens as they were next to the skin to protect the outer garments from the skin and the skin from them.  I will begin referring the pantalettes as drawers.
  • Most drawers were made of linen and silk and were hand made for the wealthy ladies. The rest wore cotton which were mass produced thanks to the sewing machine. 
  • Flannel may have been used and flannel was usually made of wool for warmth. 
  • Drawers started off longer in length and shortened over the years. 
  • With the onset of the cage crinoline in the 1850s, it became essential to wear drawers, for warmth and due to the risk of embarrassing accidents. 
In the era I'm sewing for, the 1850's drawers were often two separate legs with a casing a the top. They were tied at the top with a cord of some sort and overlapped for modesty. Over time they were sewn together with a back or side opening. 

My Take

McCalls 7227 OOP
The drawers in this pattern are not quite historically correct. They have a drawstring waist (used in Victorian times) but the legs are too baggy. If you wanted to you could sew up the front seam and leave the back open. At the moment it isn't about being historically correct but being able to adapt a pattern to sew using with french seams. Once I get this in place, I will do these drawers. Start with the easy and move to the more difficult. 
The next post will have the tracing of the pattern pieces and how I adjusted them for sewing french seams. 
Happy Doll Sewing................................

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