Tuesday, April 30, 2024

Working On The Renaissance Era Outfit

 I am making progress on the Renaissance outfit. I have changed the buttons on the chemise (hemd) to fancy ones. They may come off and I may do a ribbon closure to make it more historically correct. 

The kirtle is complete. It seem to take forever to make as I was learning so much and trying to make it historically correct. I should never have put in the boning but what is done is done. I did do cartridge pleats and whip stitched them to the bodice. All I need to do it add the eyelets to the back and decorate the bodice and finish the rhinestones on the skirt. I need to buy both of them. 

Both pieces are historically correct but may never have been worn together. The hemd is German and I can find no trace of it being worn by the upper class in England. The working class yes as it made it easy to get on and off by yourself. The upper class would have worn a lower neckline chemise under the kirtle and a partlet with a ruffle at the neckline. The sleeves of the chemise may have had a ruffled cuff or partial sleeves would have been attached to the outer dress sleeves. 

The outer dress bodice has been started. So far I have sewn 16 pieces of fabric and still have about 9 more to go.  The pieces are small and fiddly but I am taking my time. 

I am ready to cut out the outer sleeves and sew them together. Then it will be sewing the sleeves and lining before attaching it to the outer bodice piece. I think this could be a bit stressful once I sew the side seams of the bodice together and turn it right side out. A lot of fabric to turn which isn't always fun to do. I will work slowly and carefully. 

At the speed the outer dress is going together, I may be done by mid May. My goal is the end of May but finishing sooner will be nice. 

Happy Doll Sewing.............................................................

Thursday, April 25, 2024

Renaissance Era Gown

 I have been remiss on posting a picture of the finish hemd. I was so happy to have it done and then got side tracked to do another project for daughter. 

The smocking on the hemd was time consuming. Add to it I chose to do the wrong stitches, it took longer than anticipated. In actual fact, I made a mistake on the sleeves but I like the look and won't be fixing it. 

I doubt if I will make this pattern again. In actual fact, I put the pattern into recycling. This is a once made outfit. 

The dress has been started. The kirtle (underdress) skirt is ready to have the cartridge pleats gathered. 

The front of the kirtle is the wrong side of satin I've had in the stash for 10 years or more. The back of the skirt (and all lining pieces) are from a cotton print that matches the satin to perfection. 

I have started the kirtle bodice front. I was a bit confused to start with but got it figured out. The outer fabric has been marked for the boning channels and is pinned to interfaced lining fabric. 

Once that is sewn, I can then sew rows of padding stitching to the front. Then I can move on to finishing the bodice. A lot of work for such a tiny item. 

I will try to keep you posted on the progress of this outfit. I have 5 weeks to finish it in and it will take that long. There is an enormous amount of hand sewing on this part of the outfit. Repeat for the gown that goes over it. 

Happy Doll Sewing....................................................................


Thursday, April 4, 2024

The Gussets Are Sewn In and Fabric Found

 Progress has been made on the doll's chemise (hemd). I allocated time to get the gussets in. I spent quite a bit of time making sure the seams were drawn in so I could do a good match job, I managed to sew up one seam wrong and have half a gusset showing. After a good laugh, I fixed it. 

The second gusset went in much easier and I just need to sew the underarm and side seam. I ran out of time as I had to work on another project. 

I did look in the doll's stash for fabric and trim. I did find fabric I had forgotten about. Satin that looks like silk on the wrong side. This was left over from a rodeo queen top I made in 2011. Underneath it was overlay fabric I had bought and never used. I must have bought it for a top that never materialized. 

Ideas were forming very quickly in my head. I am going to cut out the piece that is lying flat and use it. The flowers on each side of the center will be trimmed off. The center piece will be at the bottom of the dress with the flowers above it. All will be hand appliquéd onto the satin. I will dig out hot fix rhinestones and add them to the front along with the neckline. I am thinking yellow and clear stones. 

I am still waiting to see if the pattern will be offered for the course or if I have to buy it. I am okay waiting as I have to finish the chemise. The goal is to have it done by Sunday afternoon. 

Today, I would like to get the remaining seams sewn and the pleats pulled ready to smock. It all depends on how I feel after having an osteopathy treatment this morning. Some days I am fine, others I have to apply heat which requires me to sit. I may take Tylenol when I get home to see if I can sew this afternoon and apply heat when I have to hand sew the binding on the quilt. I will keep you posted. 

Happy Doll Sewing......................................................................

Wednesday, April 3, 2024

Ready To Finish the Doll's Chemise

 The neckline to the doll's chemise is finished.

The sleeves were hemmed and pleated. 

I put it aside while I finished up a quilt. I am ready to start again as it is time to get this finished and the dress started. I will keep you updated as I work on the chemise.

The dress we are to make in April is another labour intensive project. The dress is suppose to be done in a solid fabric as prints were nonexistent in the Renaissance era. Prints were hand embroidered onto the fabric. My fabric choice is a print so I am thinking how I want to do the dress. 

The skirt front is suppose to be either "pinked" or hand embroidered. Pinked is cutting small slits on the bias so the lining will show through. The hand embroidery is shown using gold floss. No to both of these. My thoughts are:

    * Cross hatch the front of the skirt and apply hot fix rhinestones where the lines cross. 

    *Machine embroider a strip down the front of the skirt using a design I have on hand. I can add hot fix rhinestones to the dress.

    *Hand appliqué lace to the front of the skirt. I would have to think about this long and hard as I dig in the doll's stash. 

At the moment, all I can do is think and look at what I have in the stash. I know I will not finish this project until late May as I will be working on other projects in the sewing room and outside in the yard. 

Happy Doll Sewing.................................................................