Muslin #1 Adjustments

I decided to start with the Gotz doll pattern hack as I need it for Anna's wardrobe. It is also the hardest to do adjustments as the Gotz dolls have a tummy to deal with. 
Though I am not showing it, I traced the pattern onto tracing pellon and cut it out of a scrap of broadcloth. I sewed it up and tried it on Anna. Right now, I am working on the fit. And I needed to get the fit right. 

• The arm holes hung down too low by 1/4"
• The back was too long ??
• The front surplice fit perfectly. 
• The fit around Anna's upper torso was great.

After a couple of minutes thinking, I grabbed the shoulder seams and pulled them up. I put in a mark and pinned in place. This is the amount that needs to come off the top of the pattern at the shoulders.

This immediately made the armholes fit perfectly. 

It also shortened the back up to a better place on her waist. But it made the front too short. 

Her belly is showing. To correct this, I did the following

• Added about 1/8" to the front side seam
• Added about 1/2" to the center front
• Curved the line down from the side seam to the center front. I curved it back up to the surplice but want to make sure it is correct by folding the bodice at the center front and cutting correctly. 
• Add about 1/8" to the back side seam and blend it up to the center back length. 

I will take a picture of the adjustments as I drew them on the pattern. I will then draw a new pattern, true it up, trace it onto the tracing pellon and make muslin #2. 

While I am doing this, I will do the American Girl pattern to see what needs to be adjusted on that pattern. 

I may or may not get the two muslins made today but I am certainly working on this project while it is fresh in my mind. Hopefully there will be more to report tomorrow.

Happy Doll Sewing................................

Collage

Making A Surplice Top Pattern

Though it took some time to make the surplice bodice pattern, it was fairly easy to do. 

Supplies

• Tracing paper
• Pencil
• Eraser ( I use a white vinyl one)
• Curved ruler if you have one. 
• Bodice pattern (Butterick 6265 is a good one for American Girl type dolls. Mine is for a Gotz doll).

Procedure

Trace the pattern onto tracing paper so you have a full bodice. Trace the stitching lines and notches Make sure you have drawn in the center front line. I had to go back and draw in the notch though it wasn't really important. 

The stitching lines at the neck-shoulder seam intersection and the waist are important as we work using them, not the cutting lines. 

As I have this curved ruler, I use it for the slight curve in the bodice. can draw it freehand also. With the ruler, the 24 goes at the shoulder and I lay the ruler so it lays at the stitching line at the waist and side intersection. I'm using an old picture to show you what I did. 

The new pattern with the curved line. Instead of going to the seam allowance on the other side, I drew this line 1 1/8" to the right of the center front line. 

 I then measured 1/4" out from the curved line and drew in the seam allowance. 

I didn't have to adjust the back piece at the shoulders as we didn't cut anything away at the neckline. I also drew in a straight of grain line using the center front line prior to erasing it. I left a bit at the waist as it will become the notch to align the two fronts together. When I cut the pattern out roughly, I will match the shoulder seams at the stitching line to make sure they fit correctly. I still need to label the front and back pieces. I also erased all the unnecessary lines. 

I then decided to make the American Girl sized surplice bodice. I used Butterick 6265. I didn't draw all the lines onto the tracing paper. 

But I did draw in the stitching line where I needed it. I also measured 1 1/8" to the right of the center line. 

I drew the line in and finished it like I did previously. Also all unnecessary lines were erased. 

I copied both top pieces (the back got cut off but I have it already). I have the back pieces ready to trace onto pellon. 

Next up is sewing the muslin.  

Happy Doll Sewing..............................

This And That

I'm not lost but have been busy outside doing yard work. It is an ongoing process that will take us several more weeks to complete. 

Hacking A Pattern

I've been playing around with hacking a bodice pattern and making it into a surplice bodice. I have one version done but want to fix up the process so it is easier to understand. It was my learning curve. 

I also want to do it again where the surplices cross over before the side seams. I have some measuring to do and then I will photograph the process for that. At the moment, I am pleased with what I've done. 

Sewing

Two years ago, I bought Simplicity 1086 as it was recommended by a friend. 

I made a dress out of it and set the pattern aside. I was doing some research on 1940's clothing and this pattern popped up. I dug it out to make Kit a wardrobe. To date, I have made both the tops, the capris, and the shorts. The tops are more intensive sews but the skirt, capris, and shorts are easy to make. 
The tops and the skirt are lacking buttons. I had to add elastic to the back waist band so the skirt fit Kit snuggly. 

The capris are adorable and were so easy to make. 

And the shorts were just as easy to sew. The top of this pattern as more difficult but the other blouse was a bit harder as the collar was hard to fit onto the neckline. 

I want to make the shorts again in the check fabric and then put the pattern away. I've got my money's worth out of this one. 
To finish this part of Kits wardrobe, I've knit a plain white sweater and have a jacket and hat to add to the mix. I'm calling this her summer holiday wardrobe. She does have a dress to add to the wardrobe just in case she needs one. 
Have you ever used a pattern to its fullest? This is a first for me as I usually make one or 2 items from a pattern and move on. 
Happy Doll Sewing......................................