I'm back again and am ready to start another tutorial. We are, once again, in lock down and week 1 is done and we know we will have at least 2 more weeks of this or more.
I've struggled with sewing with knits. So much so that I gave up a while ago when I had could have won the prize for the most stretched out necklines in the world. With a lot of thinking and mulling over ideas, I'm trying again.
At first I put it to my new sewing machine giving me success, but it's more than that. So we back up and move forward.
The Pattern
The pattern I'm using is a free pattern from Pixie Faire. It is a great pattern but I find, for me, I need to do a few alterations.
From Pixie Faire |
I will show the alterations in the next post but they are:
Add 1/4" to the back center seam so the fold over is 1/2".
Add 1/8" to the neck seam so you turn over 3/8" and not 1/4"
The Fabric
For the two t-shirts shown, I bought girl's leggings in the largest size at a big box store. I have used good quality knit fabric from the stash. It was on the heavier side as I had a lot of issues using lighter weight knits, even when sewing people t-shirts.
A
note about using store bought leggings. I have found you can get 2
pairs of leggings and 1 t-shirt from the largest size. That is good
value for $4.00 a pair.
During
the learning process, I have sprayed the knits with starch to make them
stiffer. It didn't work for me but I now know what the issue was. Not
the fabric. I no longer starch the fabric.
When handling the cut pieces, be gentle with them as they will stretch. I press, not iron the seams open. Ironing will stretch the fabric.
The Sewing Machine
At first I thought it was the sewing machine that was the culprit. It really isn't, it was what I was using and doing that was wrong.
I grabbed a Microtex needle this time and I was happy with the results. You can use a Jersey needle also according to Schmetz. Just remember to use a new needle and change it often. I will make 3 pairs of leggings and 2 t-shirts before I change the needle. I'm also trying not to stitch over pins. I used a 10/75 needle also.
Needles also come in chrome and titanium finishes. As a home sewer, one does not need these needles as you can change your needle when necessary. It is more important to get the right needle for the fabric you are using. Confession- I have both chrome and titanium needles in my needle collection to try. With the higher cost, they will both have to perform perfectly for me to continue buying them.
The sole plate on your machine needs to have the small hole for straight stitching not the oval one for other stitches where the needle moves back and forth to make the stitch. This was one of my biggest problems. If you can't change from one plate to another, use a leader fabric to start your seams.
Sew slowly around the neckline. I'm not a fast sewer and find sewing slowly helps me be accurate.
If you wish to follow along, grab the free pattern, print it out but don't cut out the pieces yet. In the meantime...
Happy Doll Sewing.........................................................
It’s always a treat to see your doll clothes, Ann. I’ve used this Pixie Faire pattern several times for my grandkids, and really like it. Your needle advice is good— I need to see whether it will help my 1950-era Necchi or if that one just doesn’t like knits.
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