Saturday, June 22, 2019

Sewing A Summer Sunhat

I made the sunhat in this pattern.
McCalls 6451
I've made it twice before and have done some changes so no seams show on the inside. 

Cutting Out

  • The three pieces use up a lot of fabric so you can cut out inside of the crown and the top in a plain fabric if you want to. If you want a one color hat, do not cut out the inside brim in plain as it is seen.
  • You can use different prints for this hat if the outfit you have made has those prints in it. 
  • Plaids - I folded the fabric on a dominate line. When I lay down the brim pieces I make sure they are going to be the same on both the inside and outside. You can use the word "McCalls" to sit on a straight line to help you match up the plaids. 

Interfacing

  • The outside layer of the hat is interfaced. Do not skip this step. 
  • For the first two hats I used a fusible knit interfacing and it was okay. The plaid hat has a light weight fusible cotton interfacing (Pellon) for a bit of extra support. 

Sewing Preparation

  • The top of the hat is a circle. I snipped the circle for the center front and back so I know the circle will be on the straight of the grain when I put it into hat. 
  • Apply the interfacing and trim to make sure is the same size as the outer fabric pieces. 

Sewing the Brim

  • I followed the instructions for the brim.  
  • I decided to top stitch it light grey so it doesn't show much. I didn't want it as a feature. 
 

Sewing The Crown

From here on I don't follow the pattern.
  • After sewing the crown together, mark it and the circle into quarters. 
  • Start pinning the circle to the crown making sure the center fronts and backs match. Then do the sides. Pin between the quarters. Take your time and use lots of pins.
  • Baste the seam as it allows you to have a better opportunity to stitch more accurately. 
  • Stitch with the circle face up. Remove basting. 
  • Turn right side out and start pressing. The seam allowance folds down to the brim not up to the circle. 
Just before I pressed it. See how the red line at the front goes up over the brim to the top of the hat.
  • Repeat for the lining. 
  • I sewed a basting line 1/4" from the bottom of the crown. This line will be folded under when hand sewing the crown to the brim. 

Attaching the Crown

  • Divide both the outer crown and brim into quarters. Pin together using lots of pins. 
  • Sew the crown and brim using 1/4" seam. 
  • Press well so the seam faces into the crown. 

Attaching the Lining

  • Fold under the basting line on the crown lining at the seam allowance. 
  • Fit the crown lining with wrong sides together onto the crown starting at the seam allowance. 
  • Work your way around the hat making sure the lining is straight on the crown. I marked my crowns at center front to help me. 
  • Turn under the lining at the basting line and pin into place. 
  • I measured where the elastic went and pinned it in place while I hand sewed.
  • Hand stitch the lining into place making sure your stitches don't show on the right side of the hat. You will have no seams showing. 

  • Sew the elastic in place according to the directions. It is quite simple to do. 

Finishing Touches

  • When you have turned the hat right side out, give it a bit of a press and decide on how you will decorate the hat. For this hat I decided to put a grosgrain ribbon around the crown and add a bow at the back. 
I do love this hat pattern. It is one that is a go to to complete a summer outfit. 
To complete this outfit (at the moment), I will be knitting a red bolero. 
Happy Doll Sewing.................................

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