Mary Laura Dress - Part 1 Thoughts and Sewing

Though we have had a few restrictions lifted, we are still in self isolation and social distancing. It is hard but we will survive this just like people did in years gone by. 

The Fabric and Pattern

I have chosen to sew the Mary Laura dress this month as testing patterns has slowed down to next to nothing. I also chose to think about things as I sew and enjoy the moment as I don't have a fast deadline. It is also a pattern I've wanted to sew for a while now. 

Mary Laura Dress by Thimbles and Acorns

I chose a gingham look fabric to make the dress and in orange. The reason I bought it was it was deeply discounted in the fabric store I worked in. But, it made me think about gingham and I learned how it was a staple in Laura's time. It was also woven in the United States though its origins are European. But, the colors were limited; mainly red and blue. I wonder if it was in brown also as Laura talks a lot about Ma buying her brown fabric. Certainly not orange like I chose. 
I also wondered about patterns in the Victorian era. Did Ma have a basic pattern for making the girl's dresses and adapt it for other dresses? Or were patterns readily available to her? One wonders as patterns were available. They weren't like today's patterns but they were patterns non the less. Or did she drape to fit the girls using books that arrived for all to read?

The Process

I started with the skirt as I had made it before as an outfit when I tested this blouse pattern. 

I knew what I wanted to do differently. Not a lot of changes. As I sewed and serged the seams, I thought about Laura and Ma sewing these and other dresses. Did Ma have a treadle machine or did they sew by hand in 1879-1880? Did they finish the seams on these dresses or leave them raw? 
I serged all the seams but the back one. I did an overcast stitch on it. Doing other seam finishes is hard on 1/4" seams but one wonders what seam finishes were used? Whip stitch, french seams, Hong Kong, or turn under and stitch? All lovely thoughts to ponder over while sewing. 

The Ruffle

As I started to gather the ruffle, I thought about it. I love how it makes the skirt and dress. How full was Laura and Mary's ruffles? I had to go and look. 

Not much gathering which tells me Ma was careful with her fabric. 
I tried the skirt on Nellie with half of the ruffle gathered and I quite like the look of it in gingham. 

I am excited to finish up the skirt and start on the dress. I'm happy to be sewing for the Victorian era again. Thinking about the fabric chosen and the way it was sewn kept this fun and interesting. There will be more to follow. 
Happy Doll Sewing...........................................